Ka Pao, Ka Boom, Ka Bam!!!
About 16 years ago I asked if the building on Vinicombe Street was available to develop into a large dining space.
I had a dear friend, a climate concerned film producer, wind turbine and renewable energy enthusiast interested in partnering me and raising the finance. Sadly the owners Arnold Clark motor dealers were not interested. Everything about the venue enchanted me, the exterior tiling similar to the Bibendum restaurant in Chelsea’s Michelin House is fabulous, the location just off Byres Rd and the size, big enough to create a dining room fantasy. Every time I passed by I would gaze longingly regretting opportunities missed.
“I knew I was going to love this place from the minute I walked through the door”
Skip from 2004 right up to 2020 and the talented guys from Ox & Finch have gone and done it. Not only have they done it but with huge servings of panache. I knew I was going to love this place from the minute I walked through the door, actually double doors, no draught issues here.
My memory is sparked, I can’t help but recall my first visit 25 years ago to Mezzo (originally the sight of the legendary Marquee Club – where The Stones, The Who, Clapton and many other rock gods defied the establishment) on Wardour Street. Terence Conran’s amazing restaurant and bar sat 700 young and fashionable Londoners as well as a further 300 standing. It was an prize to get a table at the height of its popularity. The buzz and electric atmosphere are similar but mostly it’s the perfumed aroma of Asian spices wafting through the air like a scented tsunami, happy days.
We are intercepted by a delightfully charming young lady, sporting a smile that would make a flower bloom, whisked along past the sexy bar and fashionably impressive open kitchen to our table. I’m with Sarah the herbivore, media maid, mother of two, wife of one, master of Stinky the cat and owner operator of Mini Manoeuvres, remember she’s made mostly of tofu.
“it’s like going for dinner with Mother Theresa…”
It’s hard to believe this is Monday night, I’ve spotted some familiar faces in the colourful busy kaleidoscope in front of me, everyone looking deliriously happy, I am gagging to be at one with them. There’s that audible hum I recognise as a sure sign of contentment from throngs of people as they chat, eat and drink in perfect harmony.
I’m drinking sparkling water, house brew, and the bold Sarah opts for a Virgin Mary. Not only spiritually in touch with her inner tiger nuts, Sarah is doing 100 days without alcohol, honestly it’s like going for dinner with Mother Theresa… I must commend her though, she’s doing extremely well in resisting temptation other than meat and swally.
We take some time choosing our food on a couple of counts: I’ve heard from friends lucky enough to have already eaten here of their favourite dishes and I want to make sure I include them all, I should have checked my notes because I did forget a couple; and Sarah of course is aff the meat.
Vegans and vegetarians have no fear eating here, there is a dynamic range of inspired and tempting dishes available. Our first choice of Padron Peppers, tamarind and soy is delicious and not screaming “I’m meat free” as indeed the same goes for every vegan plate delivered to us. I would be more than content to ‘go veggie’ whilst eating here it was so luscious. I’m back in a couple of nights with some of Glasgow’s renowned restaurateurs, I vow to eat at least half my meal in vegetable matter. That makes me a Megan.
The fun starts when a very light dish of fresh crab, coconut, calamansi (Philippine lime to you and I) and crispy rice arrives. Four prawn crackers filled with this delectable mix, suddenly there are only three. Sarah Duchess of The Lotus Root has necked one, “in the line of duty.” In fairness I did eat my share of the peppers.
“not a single disappointing dish.”
Fried Chicken coated in spicy caramel was “so good” said Sarah… she wasn’t lying. Next up Hispi cabbage, cashew nut butter and sriracha exploded in my mouth without animal involvement of any kind. Definitely ordering this again.
Balancing my side of the table was a wonderful roast duck leg in long red pepper curry, the taste earning a thumbs up from my plant based companion as did the fluffy jasmine rice.
Cucumber salad, chilli, lime and peanuts was especially refreshing and set us up for corn ribs, salted coconut, soy and lime, both special and both met Sarah’s rigid, erm, dietary rules.
We shared a smooth ice cream, coconut peppered of course, and spent the remainder of the evening enthusing about this latest newcomer to Glasgow’s dining world. There is no doubt this will be right up there with the most popular dining rooms in town, there was not a single disappointing dish.
Our server, forgive me if I ever said ‘waitress’, was Romina from Puglia and she was singing the praises of Ka Pao, full of information and chat. She’s as good as the dinner.
I drop Sarah off at home, she’s going in to get to work, toothpick in hand, removing all and any beastly DNA before collecting her Free From Fin, Paw, Hoof or Webbed Foot Badge from Hey Duggee, awoof. Me, I discard the garland of garlic from around my neck which has kept me safe all night, you can never be too sure when the urge to take a bite of pedigree flesh may become overly much for the wee soul.
Thank you Ka Pao for your hospitality, imagination and sharing your gifts with us.
